Christchurch: A Spring Surprise

We spent a week in Christchurch in late October, just as the Southern Hemisphere was turning green for spring, and the city delighted us at every turn. For most Americans who think of Christchurch at all, it’s only vaguely tied to the earthquake of 2011—but this week-long visit revealed so much more: a cool vibe, exciting modern architecture rising amid the rebuild, pockets of surviving heritage, and lush parks everywhere. It’s no exaggeration that Christchurch earns its nickname as the “Garden City,” anchored by the grand 165-hectare Hagley Park. 

A Brief History

In the mid-19th century, Christchurch was founded by wealthy English settlers under the auspices of the Canterbury Association, whose charter aimed to create an Anglican, English-style settlement in New Zealand.  The so-called “Canterbury Pilgrims” arrived aboard four ships in December 1850—the Charlotte Jane, Randolph, Sir George Seymour and Cressy.  The land parcels and overall layout were highly controlled: settlers had to buy both rural and town allotments at set prices to ensure a “respectable” social structure.  Christchurch became the first city in New Zealand by letters patent on 31 July 1856. 

Their aim: a strong, orderly English settlement, imbued with church, school and public spaces—from the outset they reserved large green spaces like Hagley Park “forever for public recreation.” 

Getting Oriented — The Street-Car Ride

I always recommend starting out with a hop-on/hop-off bus to get your bearings—but in Christchurch, skip the bus and instead begin your first day with the utterly charming antique street-car hop-on/hop-off tour. The circular route stops at 17 major sites across the city, threading you through the ancient heritage stone-walled districts (some beautifully restored, others still in transition) and the gleaming new rebuilds.

Our driver served as both narrator and local historian, pointing out where old façades were replaced with steel-and-glass, where heritage masonry is meeting modern building techniques, and where the city is quite literally reinventing itself in front of your eyes. It’s the quickest, most scenic way to register the layout of the city, appreciate its scale and understand the juxtaposition of past and present.

Visit to Quake City — Resilience in Brutal Detail

A visit to Quake City (inside the Canterbury Museum) is essential if you want to understand the city’s recent history through more than just casual observation. The last large earthquake to devastate Christchurch struck on 22 February 2011: magnitude 6.3, epicentre ~6.7 km south-east of the central business district, at a depth of about 5 km.  The catastrophe killed 185 people and injured thousands, triggered major liquefaction across the eastern suburbs—over 400,000 tonnes of silt were forced out of the ground. 

At Quake City you’ll find compelling exhibits: chunks of the collapsed tower of ChristChurch Cathedral, clocks frozen at the moment of impact, interactive displays of the seismic readings, and testimonies from survivors.  Two particular exhibits stood out: one tracing the collapse of the iconic CTV building and another showing the street-lights sent by sister cities around the world in solidarity (yes, including a lamppost from San Francisco). We exited shaking our heads at both tragedy and perseverance. And yes, ironic as it sounds: because of the quality of the rebuild and the stringent building codes now in place, Christchurch is considered, in principle, one of the safest cities in the world if the next big one hits. Pro tip: don’t skip the exhibit of donated street lights—symbolic, moving and beautiful.

Hagley Park & The Botanic Gardens

Two blocks from Quake City lies Hagley Park and within it the gracious Christchurch Botanic Gardens. Hagley Park covers approximately 165 hectares (407 acres) and is the largest central-city open space in Christchurch.  Created in the 1850s, it remains the green heart of the city. The Botanic Gardens, nested along the loop of the Avon River, offer a lush, flowering escape with bridges, lily-ponds and ducklings everywhere.

We spent hours wandering this oasis and loved watching ducklings being cuddled by their mothers along the Avon’s banks. The museum café – tucked inside the Botanic Gardens – turned out to be a perfect stop for lunch or afternoon tea. On weekends, Hagley Park hosts a variety of gatherings: free open-air concerts, parkrun mornings, cultural festivals and even food trucks. The vast lawns and mature trees made it one of our favourite relaxed afternoons in the city.

The Antarctica Museum — A Cold Dose of Adventure

Another must-visit is the International Antarctic Centre, a short drive from the centre. We were especially entranced by the little blue penguins—the smallest penguin species in the world—who had been rescued and now reside here. Some stories struck us: one penguin missing a leg, another with an under-formed fin so she swims in circles, and one little girl penguin who’d been attacked by a predator in the wild and now fears the water. The keepers explained they give her tiny supervised baths in the hope she’ll one day regain confidence. 

The museum also features live husky dogs whose trainer explained their former use in Antarctic expeditions, and a dramatic snow-chamber experience that drops the temperature to mimic “warm” summer in Antarctica – even with coats on, we were shivering after a minute. Pro tip: pay for the guided tour. The extra commentary and behind-the-scenes access elevate the experience greatly.

Other Gems We Loved

1. Cathedral Square & the rebuild: We hung out at Cathedral Square, which sits opposite the grand new library and the newly opened Court Theatre (where we saw an excellent performance of The King’s Speech). Across the square stands the badly damaged Cathedral, whose spire and tower were hit in the earthquake and whose rebuild has been stalled due to funding, heritage and structural debates.  

2. Avon River walk: We strolled along the Avon as it winds through the centre, passing punters and willows and, at one playful spot, children reaching into the river to pet the protected eels that live there. We skipped the eel-petting moment for prudence, but loved the children’s squeals.

3. Riverside Market: A fantastic food-stop. We made a beeline for the butcher-pie stall that a local had recommended and it did not disappoint — truly one of the best savory pies we’ve tasted.

4. Ravenscar House Museum: We’re drawn to small house museums for their intimacy and local perspective, and this one hit the mark. We could have lingered in the library for hours browsing art and New Zealand history books. On the day we visited, we were the only ones signed up for the private, free tour—felt like VIPs.

5. The Arts Centre (Te Matatiki Toi Ora): A gorgeous precinct of gothic revival stone buildings, once part of Canterbury College, now a cultural hub. It suffered badly in the 2010-11 earthquakes and is undergoing a massive restoration project (budgeted at over NZ$200 million) to bring the 21 heritage buildings back to life.  

6. Cardboard Cathedral: A unique temporary pro-cathedral made largely of cardboard tubes—unique, modern, symbolically significant for the post-quake era.

7. Riccarton House and Grounds: A stately house with charming grounds, offering a quieter, polished counter-point to the city’s rebuild buzz.

8. Saturday farmers’ market: One of our favourite mornings—local stallholders, fresh fruit, pastries and coffee on the riverbank next to the market. We loaded up on treats and joined locals lounging beside the Avon.

9. Day-Trips:

   1. Lyttelton: A charming, quirky port town with independent cafés, a maritime vibe and hillside homes.

   2. Sumner: The esplanade walk here reminded me of 1970s-era Laguna Beach—with its beach, surrounding hills and seaside homes, still refreshingly un-overbuilt.

   3. Port Hills: For stunning views and hiking — the hills form the spine of the earthquake ridge and the vistas are worth every step.

   4. Coastal plains walks, Hanmer Springs for hot springs, and even a stop at Akaroa (a small French settlement) on the way to the relaxed-vibe - or stay in the quirky converted-grain-silo Airbnbs at Little River.

Conclusion

Christchurch surprised us—in the best way. What many might anticipate is a city scarred and static, still locked in the memory of a tragic earthquake. What we found instead is a vibrant, re-emerging city that honours its heritage, embraces its green spaces, and is boldly re-imagining itself for the 21st century. From the carefully preserved English-style origins to the street-car loops and the riverside strolls, from ducklings in Hagley Park to penguins in the Antarctic Centre, Christchurch blends refuge and reinvention. For the foodie-baker-traveller like me, for the architecture-lover, for the design-minded visitor—it offers layers of experience.

If you go: stay curious, linger in unexpected corners, and allow time for both reflection and adventure.