Auckland: A City of Volcanoes, Views, and Surprises

Auckland, on New Zealand’s North Island, is often the first stop for international travelers before ultimately hopping down to the South Island to explore its jaw-dropping natural beauty. While it may not be the most beautiful city we’ve visited, in our opinion it is well worth a couple of days of exploration. Dig a little beneath the surface, and Auckland reveals itself as a city of layered history, vibrant neighborhoods, and unexpected charms.

A City Built on Volcanoes

Home to roughly 1.7 million residents, Auckland is by far New Zealand’s largest city, spread across two harbors and built atop more than 50 extinct volcanoes. This unusual geography gives the city its rolling hills, spectacular viewpoints, and a sense of drama in the landscape you don’t find in most urban centers.

The Māori name for Auckland is Tāmaki Makaurau, which poetically translates to “a spouse desired by a hundred lovers” — a reference to its fertile volcanic soils, sheltered harbors, and enviable access to the Waikato River, New Zealand’s largest. It’s easy to see why so many groups coveted this land: it’s a place where geography has always shaped destiny.

We visited in early October — the beginning of New Zealand’s spring — and quickly learned that the weather here has a mind of its own. It rained every single day of our visit, often three or four times in a single day. Kiwis will tell you to dress for four seasons in one day, and they’re not exaggerating.

Two pro tips up front:

1. Never use taxis in Auckland. We tried twice, and both fares were literally double the cost of Uber. Lesson learned.

2. Pack your walking legs. Because the city sits on those 50+ volcanic cones, there are many steep hills — something we somehow missed in the guidebooks. Comfortable shoes are essential.

Staying in Ponsonby: Local Charm Meets History

We prefer to stay outside major tourist centers to experience a city’s neighborhoods more like locals. In Auckland, we found a gem of an Airbnb in the heart of Ponsonby, one of the city’s most beloved and eclectic neighborhoods.

Ponsonby began as a working-class suburb in the 19th century and, over time, became a crucible for social change. In the 1970s and 80s it was a hotbed of activism — the Māori rights movement, women’s rights, and gay rights all found strong voices here. Its largely unspoiled stock of historic wooden villas, many lovingly restored, gives the neighborhood a timeless character. Its elevated position offers spectacular views of downtown and both harbors, and its proximity means you can walk or bike to the city center with ease.

Ponsonby’s High Street is one of the most vibrant in Auckland, lined with restaurants, bars, and boutiques. Don’t miss Western Park, a lush green space where whimsical faux architectural fragments poke out of the grass — as if the ruins of a forgotten city are being slowly unearthed.

Ponsonby Favorites

Food

• Sol’s Place – Our favorite coffee spot, run by the most charming couple. Excellent coffee, cooked-to-order breakfasts and lunches, and a huge rear courtyard for sunny mornings, in addition to a cozy front café.

• Ramen Takara – A great spot for comforting, flavorful noodles.

• Kohl – Elevated Indian dining; the naan stuffed with mushrooms and goat cheese will haunt my dreams forever.

• Prego – Hugely popular for its consistently excellent Italian food.

• Jacuzzi – Known for its lively bar scene and playful vibe.

• Elmo’s – Great pizza, a young and energetic crowd, and a fun place to spend an evening.

• Ponsonby Central Market – A lively indoor market with a dozen or more food options, from sushi to Brazilian BBQ to Japanese pastries and noodle shops. Perfect if everyone in your group wants something different; gather in the central courtyard afterward.

Shopping

• Nudie Jeans – Quirky name, excellent Swedish denim and clothing.

• 5th Avenue – Stylish men’s clothing with a curated feel.

• Orexart – Showcasing beautiful works from some of New Zealand’s top contemporary artists.

• Public Record – An outstanding Japanese gallery known for refined ceramics, textiles, and contemporary craft.

• Tokyo Barber – If you need a haircut, this is the spot. Each cut ends with a blissful shoulder and head massage. Heaven.

Exploring the City

Auckland’s hills make the Hop-On Hop-Off Bus a particularly smart choice. The full loop takes about two hours and gives a fantastic overview of the city’s neighborhoods. I hopped off at various stops, only to run out of daylight, while my partner more wisely stayed on for the entire loop first, then doubled back to explore just his top picks.

Auckland Art Gallery (Toi o Tāmaki)

While it’s not the Louvre, this is a superb regional museum, with both compelling New Zealand art and a choice international collection featuring works by Picasso, Monet, and others. The light-filled café overlooks the adjoining park — a perfect coffee stop.

Auckland War Memorial Museum

Set dramatically inside the crater of an extinct volcano, this museum focuses on New Zealand’s military history, including its pivotal role in both World Wars. The exhibits are sobering and beautifully curated, and the cultural galleries offer fascinating insights into Auckland’s civil rights history and Māori heritage.

Mt. Eden

The highest natural point in the city and well worth the 15-minute climb from the bus stop. The panoramic views stretch from harbor to harbor. There’s a fun bit of trivia: in the early 20th century, workers used an elephant from a traveling circus to haul construction materials up to the summit viewing platform.

For a less strenuous alternative, head to the Sky Tower, Auckland’s modern “space needle.” At 328 m (1,076 ft), it’s the tallest freestanding structure in the Southern Hemisphere. The glass-floored observation deck offers sweeping views, and if you’re feeling daring, you can even bungee jump off it.

Experiences That Stood Out

• Rugby Game – We didn’t catch the All Blacks, but watched Auckland vs Otago in a regional match. Even in pouring rain, play continued — a testament to Kiwi toughness. It was pure local fun.

• Auckland’s Civic Theatre – A former movie palace built in 1929, it’s a Moorish-Arabian fantasy inside, complete with a starry night ceiling and gilt elephants flanking the stage. We were lucky enough to see a performance of Priscilla Queen of the Desert; it was hard to tell whether the show or the audience was more flamboyant.

Day Trip to Waiheke Island

An absolute must. The ferry ride from downtown Auckland takes about 40 minutes and offers postcard views of the harbor and skyline. Once on Waiheke, the Hop-On Hop-Off bus makes it easy to explore at your own pace.

Waiheke is known for its vineyards and beaches. Top wineries include Mudbrick, Cable Bay, and Tantalus Estate, each with their own stunning vistas and excellent wines. For lunch, our favorite was Café Fenice, a chic spot in the heart of Oneroa village.

But the memory that still makes us laugh: in the tiny island history museum, tucked into a back corner was a remarkable exhibit of turn-of-the-century enema devices, complete with descriptions of the liquids used — including coffee, tannic acid, silver nitrate, milk and molasses, and even turpentine. It made us profoundly grateful for the modern miracle of Metamucil.

Final Thoughts

Unlike some cities that reveal themselves immediately, Auckland rewards curiosity. Its charms unfold slowly — in the historic neighborhoods, the volcanic vistas, the small museums, and the unexpected quirks. Take the time to explore, and Auckland just might surprise you.