Tassie: A Week in Hobart and Beyond

Tasmania—“Tassie” to locals—may not be on most Americans’ travel radar. It requires a long flight to Sydney or Melbourne, then another hop to Hobart, the island’s capital. But it is absolutely worth the effort. What awaits is stunning natural beauty, a world-class food and wine culture, and some of the warmest, most generous people I’ve met on my travels.

Many visitors don’t realize that Tasmania is not its own country, but Australia’s only island state. Roughly the size of Switzerland, you could technically drive the circumference in about 20 hours—but Tassie rewards those who slow down.

The island’s history runs deep. Before Europeans arrived, Tasmania was home to the Palawa people for tens of thousands of years. In the early 1800s, the British established Tasmania as a penal colony, transporting convicts from overcrowded prisons in England. Much of the island’s infrastructure—bridges, churches, breweries, and roads—was built by convict labor. That layered past, combined with its wild landscapes and creative present, gives Tassie a character that’s both raw and refined.

We spent a week based in Hobart. It wasn’t nearly enough to see everything, but it was long enough to fall in love.

Getting to Know Hobart

Hobart proper has about 55,000 residents, with the surrounding metro area closer to 250,000. The city curls around a wide bay, climbing toward Mount Wellington, which offers spectacular views from the summit. It feels almost like a modest Midwestern American town—quiet streets, a relaxed pace—but the shock is Hobart’s dining scene, which rivals San Francisco, London, or Paris.

We began, as we often do, with the Hop On, Hop Off red bus, a favorite even of travel writers like Bill Bryson. Riding the full loop first gave us a sense of the city, then we circled back to stops that intrigued us most:

• Salamanca Market & Arts District – A row of sandstone warehouses turned into a hub of restaurants, jazz clubs, and shops showcasing Tasmanian design. Saturdays bring the lively Salamanca Market, sprawling for blocks with stalls full of crafts and gourmet bites.

  • Insider Tip: Don’t miss the Farm Gate Market on Sundays—smaller, food-focused, and beloved by locals. Grab a bite from Rough Rice or sample cheeses from Elgaar Farm.

• Battery Point – My favorite neighborhood in Hobart, with its 18th-century cottages and sweeping harbor views. We strolled the narrow streets, then stopped at Jackman & McRoss, an old-world bakery that still feels like the town’s living room.

• Cascade Brewery – Established in 1824, this is Tassie’s oldest brewery. The tour is part history, part folklore, including stories of its convict builders and the famous bell that once rang four times a day for beer breaks. Today it rings only on Fridays—but the tradition of gathering over pints remains alive and well.

• Cascades Female Factory – A UNESCO World Heritage site, this was once a prison for female convicts. The museum tells the stories of resilience, survival, and tragedy of the women and children who passed through its gates. The guided tours are deeply moving.

• Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens – Founded in 1818, these gardens are lush and layered. The standout is the Subantarctic Plant House, which recreates the windswept climate of remote Macquarie Island. Nearby, Government House, still the Governor’s residence, is one of the grandest in Australia.

• Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery – Compact but excellent, with exhibits on Indigenous Tasmanians, colonial history, maritime culture, and the fabled (now extinct) thylacine, or Tasmanian tiger.

And then, there’s Hobart’s most famous cultural landmark:

• MONA – The Museum of Old and New Art – We took the quirky ferry upriver to MONA, and from the moment we stepped off, I knew we were in for something extraordinary. Opened in 2011 by David Walsh, a professional gambler-turned-collector, MONA has been described as the most daring museum in the Southern Hemisphere. Carved into sandstone cliffs, it feels part James Bond lair, part subterranean cathedral. Exhibits are eclectic and provocative: an Egyptian mummy, a machine that mimics human digestion, immersive light installations, and ever-changing contemporary works that spark debate. MONA has put Hobart on the global cultural map—some call it the “Bilbao Effect” of the Southern Hemisphere—and it’s worth the trip to Tasmania all on its own.

Day Trips Beyond Hobart

With a rental car, we explored Tassie’s nearby valleys and coasts. Distances look short on a map, but winding roads mean you’ll want to slow down.

• Coal River Valley & Richmond – The valley is lined with vineyards, rolling hills, and the Georgian town of Richmond, home to St. John’s Catholic Church (built 1836), the oldest still in use in Australia. Richmond also boasts the Richmond Bridge, the oldest stone bridge in the country, built by convicts in 1825 and still carrying traffic today. Just outside town, Pooley Wines is a must-stop for some of Tasmania’s finest cool-climate wines.

• Derwent Valley – We visited the Salmon Ponds Heritage Hatchery & Gardens, founded in 1864 and the birthplace of Australia’s trout industry. The gardens are exquisite, with heritage trees and quiet ponds, and the hatchery itself is fascinating. Further up the valley, we had what was easily the most memorable meal of our trip at The Agrarian Kitchen.

• Port Arthur – A hauntingly beautiful site, Port Arthur was once a brutal penal settlement. Its well-preserved buildings and ruins tell the story of Australia’s convict past in vivid detail. Standing on the edge of the bay, it’s hard not to feel the weight of history here.

  • Bonus: Nearby is the Tasmanian Devil Unzoo, where animals roam freely. We fed kangaroos, saw a joey tucked in its mother’s pouch, and got up close to Tassie devils. Unlike traditional zoos, the focus here is conservation and natural interaction—it was a highlight.

• Bruny Island – Though we didn’t make it, countless locals recommended it. Famous for rugged coastlines, sweeping beaches, and some of the world’s best oysters, Bruny is a foodie’s paradise wrapped in wild scenery.

Dining in Hobart

Hobart’s dining scene is astonishing—ambitious, creative, and deeply rooted in local ingredients. Some highlights:

• MONA’s The Source – Artistic dishes served with sweeping river views.

• Peppina – Contemporary Italian with Tasmanian flair, inside the Tasman Hotel. Pastas and wood-fired meats are standouts.

• Frogmore Creek Winery – Incredible vineyard views and a seasonal menu that pairs perfectly with their wines.

• Mary Mary – A chic wine bar with small plates ideal for a light evening out.

But nothing compares to:

• The Agrarian Kitchen – This is not just a restaurant—it’s an experience. Originally a cooking school, it has evolved into a dining destination that’s won accolades from Gourmet Traveller and The Australian Good Food Guide. Open only for lunch, each meal begins with a tour of the gardens, where you’re introduced to the vegetables, herbs, and fruits that will soon appear on your plate. From there, guests are led into the kitchen itself to meet the chefs and see the day’s menu taking shape. The dining room is set inside a former asylum, but it feels bright, modern, and deeply soulful. Every dish is hyper-seasonal, often harvested just hours before serving. It was, without question, one of the most memorable meals I’ve ever had.

Our server that day, a passionate foodie who’d worked there for seven years, gave us a list of her other local favorites: Fico, Dier Makr, Ogre, Pitzi, Trophy Room, Scholar, and Pitzi’s sister restaurant. If you have more time, those belong on your list, too.

Coffee Culture

Like the rest of Australia, Tassie takes its coffee very seriously. Locals are fiercely loyal to their favorite cafés. Some of my favorites in Hobart were:

• Somewhere Coffee Bar

• Wide Awake

• Audrey

• Shake a Leg Jr.

• Abercrombie

Insider Tips

• Best time to go: Summer (Dec–Feb) for festivals and long days; autumn (Mar–May) for cooler weather and gorgeous foliage.

• Driving: Allow more time than you think—Tasmanian roads are narrow and winding.

• Markets: Salamanca Market (Saturday) is best for browsing and souvenirs; Farm Gate Market (Sunday) for food and produce.

• Weather: Bring layers—sun, mist, and wind often arrive in a single afternoon.

• Foodie favorites: Don’t miss Tassie oysters, cheeses, and cool-climate wines—they’re world-class.

Final Thoughts

Tassie is a place that lingers in your memory long after you’ve left. Hobart feels approachable and relaxed, yet it delivers fine dining and culture at a world-class level. Beyond the city, you’ll find convict-built bridges, haunting historic sites, pristine valleys, and rugged coastlines.

A week wasn’t nearly enough. But Tassie has a way of tugging at you, inviting you back for more—more oysters, more trails, more stories whispered through its history. And I, for one, can’t wait to return.