Byron Bay: Hippie Soul, Upscale Shine, and Laid-Back Magic

If you’re lucky enough to have friends who live in Sydney, chances are they’ll tell you that one of their favorite beach getaways is Byron Bay — a short flight north to the Gold Coast Airport followed by a 40-minute drive south through rolling green hills dotted with banana and macadamia plantations.

We were there in late September, the start of Australia’s spring, and it was already warm enough for shorts and T-shirts. The days were long and sunny, with that soft, golden light that makes everything feel relaxed and easy.

From Abattoirs to Aura Crystals

Byron Bay has a layered and rather surprising history. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it was a working-class town centered on its meat processing plants and whaling station. Locals once joked that you could smell Byron long before you arrived. But in the 1960s and 70s, after the whaling industry collapsed, Byron experienced a complete reinvention. Drawn by cheap land, beautiful surf breaks, and the area’s natural energy, hippies, healers, and surfers began to arrive. Communes and spiritual communities flourished, alternative medicine thrived, and Byron became a magnet for countercultural movements.

Fast forward to today, and while its bohemian heart is still visible, Byron has added a decidedly upscale layer. It’s now the second (or perhaps third) home to some of Australia’s best-known actors and musicians, with chic boutiques, luxury wellness retreats, and designer restaurants sitting side-by-side with incense shops and barefoot yogis.

At the town limits, a cheery sign greets you with Byron’s unofficial motto: “Cheer Up, Slow Down, Chill Out.” It’s hard not to do all three once you arrive.

The Town Center

The township itself radiates out from a single Main Street that runs straight down to Main Beach. It’s a lively mix of everything from upscale restaurants to low-key pizza and burger joints, from high-end designer shops to stalls selling crystals, surf gear, and boho dresses. The coffee scene is serious — there’s a café seemingly on every corner — and live music drifts out of bars most evenings.

The hippie origins are still very much present, but gentrification has clearly gained the upper hand, for better or worse. You’ll see tattooed surfers and barefoot backpackers mingling with chic couples in linen and celebrity chefs sourcing ingredients at the farmers’ market.

Our Favorite Beaches

1. Tallow Beach

On the southern side of Cape Byron, Tallow Beach stretches for seven kilometers of wild, unbroken sand backed by coastal forest. It’s less crowded than Main Beach, with sweeping views toward Broken Head. On windy days, it’s a magnet for kite surfers; on still mornings, it can feel almost meditative.

2. Wategos Beach

Tucked into a sheltered cove beneath the lighthouse, Wategos is Byron at its most postcard-perfect. Calm waters make it ideal for swimming and paddle boarding, while surfers catch long peeling waves further out. It’s small, elegant, and lined with luxury homes and boutique hotels.

3. Clarkes Beach

Just east of Main Beach, Clarkes is a family favorite thanks to its gentle waves and wide sands. It’s also a popular starting point for the coastal walk up to the lighthouse.

4. The Pass

Between Clarkes and Wategos, The Pass is one of Byron’s most famous surf breaks — a long right-hander beloved by experienced surfers. Climb the wooden lookout for fantastic views of the surf lineup and dolphins cruising by.

Dining Highlights in Byron Bay

1. Pixie

Possibly our favorite dinner of the trip. Pixie blends Italian coastal flavors with Australian produce in a stylish yet relaxed setting. Handmade pastas, wood-grilled seafood, and bright, citrusy cocktails made this one of those meals you linger over.

2. Light Years

Right next door, Light Years offers modern Asian fusion with a playful twist — think prawn toast with yuzu mayo, crisp pork belly bao, and zingy cocktails. It’s lively, loud, and full of good energy.

3. The Vegan Café at the Christian Science Church

Guidebooks rarely mention the connection, but this unassuming café on Jonson Street is technically part of the Christian Science Church property. There’s no proselytizing, just genuinely good plant-based food in a peaceful garden setting.

4. The Farm

A short drive outside town, The Farm is a working farm, restaurant, bakery, and community hub that lives up to its name. Visitors can stroll among fields and livestock before settling in for truly farm-to-table meals at Three Blue Ducks, the on-site restaurant. Kids love it here, but so do adults who appreciate impeccable ingredients and relaxed surroundings.

5. Raes on Wategos

An icon of Byron since the 1960s, Raes is a Mediterranean-style boutique hotel perched right above Wategos Beach. Over the decades it’s hosted rock stars, royals, and plenty of Hollywood names. Dinner here is a splurge — elegant, seasonal dishes served with ocean views that practically glow at sunset.

6. Fleet, Brunswick Heads

While we didn’t manage to score a reservation, locals insisted that Fleet, a tiny 14-seat restaurant in the nearby town of Brunswick Heads, is magical. Tasting menus change constantly, built around hyper-local ingredients and creative techniques. Book well in advance if you can.

7. Saturday Farmers’ Market

Held every Saturday morning, this market is filled with fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and ready-to-eat treats. It’s primarily a local scene — grab a flat white and a breakfast bun, listen to live music, and watch as locals greet each other over bunches of kale and macadamias.

Other Experiences We Loved

The Balcony Bar & Oysters

Perched above Main Street, this lively spot serves excellent seafood, steaks, and cocktails. On Sunday nights it transforms with a weekly drag show that’s equal parts irreverent and fabulous.

Lighthouse Walk

For those with decent fitness, the walk up to Cape Byron Lighthouse, the easternmost point of mainland Australia, is unforgettable. The trail winds along cliffs and beaches with sweeping ocean views — humpback whales are often visible in migration season. At the top, the 1901 lighthouse gleams white against the sky.

Arts Factory Lodge

If you want a taste of Byron’s original hippie spirit, wander into the Arts Factory Lodge. It’s essentially a hostel, but with a vibe that feels like stepping into a 1970s commune — drum circles, tie-dye, and travelers swapping stories around campfires. Even if you’re not staying, it’s worth a visit.

Exploring the Hinterland Towns

As retirees whose dermatologists constantly remind us about avoiding more sun damage, we spent several days exploring the hinterland towns surrounding Byron Bay. All are within a 20- to 40-minute drive and each has its own personality.

Bangalow

By far our favorite. Established in the 1880s, Bangalow grew around its timber industry and dairy farms, and its main street still feels like a classic country town — wide verandas, heritage buildings, and a slower rhythm. Today it’s filled with galleries, cafés, and shops that blend rural charm with refined taste.

Don’t miss the Country Women’s Association shop, where local ladies sell hand-knitted and crocheted goods to support charitable work. Red Ginger is a delightful combination dumpling house and Asian emporium. Just off the main street, The Lumber Yard has a lovely café (Woods Bangalow) and a dozen charming shops. Among the half-dozen galleries, our favorite was Station Street Co-op. And keep an eye out at the butcher’s: kangaroo rump is advertised right alongside lamb chops.

Mullumbimby

This small agricultural hub is undergoing a quiet renaissance. A local entrepreneur, Dominic Richards, has purchased and restored several historic pubs and buildings, giving the town a renewed energy. He also transformed the town’s old bank into The Banya, which locals call a “bath house” but we’d call a spa. It’s a beautifully renovated sanctuary with hot mineral pools, a wood-fired sauna, cold plunge, five heavenly massage rooms, and an excellent restaurant.

While Byron has its share of wellness centers, several people told us The Banya is the one worth driving for — and they were right.

Just outside town lies Crystal Castle & Shambhala Gardens. While many rave about it, we found it a bit too commercial. The Brunswick Valley drive, also known as the Coolamon Scenic Drive, more than made up for it — a winding route through verdant farmland and rainforest with breathtaking views back to the coast.

Murwillumbah

Murwillumbah is home to the Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre, one of Australia’s most impressive regional galleries. It showcases both national and local artists, and the meticulously recreated studio of beloved painter Margaret Olley is a highlight.

The town itself boasts a remarkable collection of Art Deco architecture, reflecting its prosperity in the 1920s and 30s. Key buildings include the Regent Theatre and the former Austral Building. Don’t miss the Empire Revival in the Regent Grand Hall, now part of the larger M|Arts Precinct, which has become the creative hub of the town with artist studios, galleries, and performance spaces.

Burringbar

A tiny village with a single main street lined with vintage stores, cafés, and quirky shops. The Northern Rivers Rail Trail runs through here, making it a wonderful place to pause for a hike or bike ride before grabbing a coffee and browsing antiques.

Final Thoughts

Byron Bay manages to hold onto its free-spirited, slightly eccentric heart while embracing a new, more polished identity. Whether you’re walking barefoot on Tallow Beach, sipping cocktails at Raes, or wandering through a country gallery in Bangalow, it’s hard not to fall under Byron’s spell.

Cheer up. Slow down. Chill out. Byron makes it easy.