Honolulu: Seeing Hawaii Through Local Eyes

I visit Honolulu a couple of times a year, usually for a week or so at a time. The reason is not tourism but friendship. One of my closest friends is 98 years old. Although he grew up in San Francisco, his family roots run deep in Hawaii, and he has lived here since shortly after World War II.

Because of him, I experience Honolulu less as a tourist destination and more as a quasi-local visitor.

Through his stories, I can almost see Waikiki as it was when there were only two hotels along the beach and a simple sand fence separating the shoreline from a two-lane road. It is difficult to reconcile that quieter Honolulu with the energetic, crowded city visitors encounter today. Yet traces of that older Hawaii remain if you know where to look.

Getting There

One pleasant surprise for first-time visitors is how easy Honolulu is to navigate. There is now a rail system connecting parts of Oahu, including service toward the airport, though it does not yet directly connect most visitors to Waikiki. For now, most travelers will find hotel shuttles, Uber, Lyft, taxis, or rental cars the most practical options. Fortunately, once you arrive in Waikiki, a car is often unnecessary.

The Beaches

The beaches are the main event. Most visitors naturally gravitate toward Waikiki Beach. It is iconic and offers some of the best people-watching anywhere in the world. But it can also feel crowded, especially during peak periods. My preference is to keep walking. The beach in front of Kapiolani Park is often quieter and more relaxed. Continue farther and you reach Kaimana Beach, which feels worlds away from the busiest sections of Waikiki despite being only a pleasant walk from the hotels. If you continue beyond that, you’ll discover smaller stretches of shoreline near Tonggs Beach and around the area of the old War Memorial Natatorium. Here the pace slows considerably, and you begin to understand why so many longtime residents treasure this part of Honolulu.

Iolani Palace

If there is one cultural attraction I never tire of visiting, it is Iolani Palace. The United States has many grand government buildings and historic homes, but only one royal palace. Built by King Kalākaua in the late nineteenth century, it offers a fascinating glimpse into Hawaii’s monarchy and the complicated history that ultimately led to the overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom. The beautifully restored interiors, royal artifacts, and stories of the final years of the monarchy make it one of the most rewarding historic sites in the islands.

Pearl Harbor

Pearl Harbor deserves an entire day. No matter how many books you have read or documentaries you have watched, standing above the USS Arizona Memorial is an entirely different experience. Below you lie the remains of the battleship and many of the sailors who never escaped. Their watery grave remains one of the most moving memorials I have visited anywhere in the world. For me, the experience evokes some of the same emotions I felt at the American Cemetery in Normandy. Different places. Different circumstances. Yet both remind us how many young lives were cut short and how much talent, promise, and potential was lost. Standing there, it is difficult not to reflect on humanity’s continuing inability to find a lasting path to peace.

A Brutalist Paradise

I have long appreciated Brutalist architecture, which I readily admit is something of an acquired taste. For those who share that affection, Honolulu offers some surprisingly impressive examples. The Hawaii State Capitol is among the most distinctive government buildings in America. Rather than a traditional dome, its open-air design symbolizes volcanoes, mountains, and the islands themselves. Nearby, the First Hawaiian Center, the former IBM Building, and several University of Hawaii structures showcase elements of late modernist and Brutalist design. These buildings are often overlooked by visitors rushing between beach and shopping districts, but architecture enthusiasts will find much to admire.

Shangri La

One of Honolulu’s most unusual attractions is Shangri La, the former home of Doris Duke.

Part museum, part residence, part cultural collection, it contains one of the world’s most important collections of Islamic art. The setting alone is extraordinary, perched above the ocean near Diamond Head. The combination of architecture, gardens, ocean views, and art creates an experience unlike anything else in Hawaii. It is not on every tourist’s itinerary, which is precisely why I recommend it.

Sunset Rituals

One of my favorite Honolulu traditions costs surprisingly little.

Many of the luxury beachfront hotels have spectacular verandas and outdoor terraces overlooking the ocean. Rather than committing to an expensive dinner, I often arrive shortly before sunset, order a Mai Tai, and simply enjoy the view.

The price of the drink effectively buys admission to one of the world’s most beautiful sunset shows. Afterward, I head elsewhere for a more reasonably priced meal.

Walking the Ala Wai Canal

Most visitors walk Waikiki Beach. Fewer walk the Ala Wai Canal.

Running parallel to Waikiki just a few blocks inland, the canal was originally built in the 1920s to drain what had been marshland and make modern Waikiki possible. Today it offers a pleasant alternative to the beachfront crowds. Walking along the water with views toward the Koʻolau Mountains can be surprisingly peaceful.

The canal also plays a role in one of my favorite stories from my friend. Many years ago, he lived in a high-rise overlooking the canal. When a tsunami warning was issued, he and his friends decided the safest response was apparently to throw a party on the tenth floor. For a while nothing seemed to happen. Then someone noticed the canal, which is connected to the ocean, suddenly emptying. Minutes later it began rapidly filling again. Fortunately, no significant flooding followed, but it provided a vivid reminder of the ocean’s power.

Exploring by Bicycle

Honolulu is surprisingly bike-friendly.

Much of the terrain around Waikiki, Ala Moana, and Kapiolani Park is relatively flat, making cycling an easy and enjoyable way to explore.

For visitors who enjoy being active, renting a bicycle can be one of the best values in town.

Lap Swimming

As a devoted lap swimmer, I always search for public pools. Honolulu has them, but they are relatively few and often fairly basic compared with facilities found in many mainland cities.

Then again, when the Pacific Ocean is warm enough to swim in year-round, perhaps there is less incentive to build elaborate public aquatic centers. It is hard to argue with that logic.

Food: Adjust Expectations

Having lived in San Francisco for more than three decades, I arrived with fairly high culinary expectations. Over time, I made peace with the fact that Honolulu simply is not a world-class food city in the way San Francisco, New York, London, or Tokyo are. That may sound harsh, but it has been my personal experience. The notable exception has been Senaia, one of the few restaurants that consistently surprises and delights me.

I am also fond of the Banyan Tree restaurant at the Kaimana Beach Hotel. The setting beneath its enormous namesake tree, steps from the ocean, gives it a relaxed charm that captures old Hawaii better than many far more expensive establishments. More often than not, rather than paying premium prices for a mediocre meal, I head to one of Honolulu’s many food halls or casual takeaway spots, assemble a picnic or simple dinner, and enjoy it back at my hotel room or on the beach.

Sweet Things

If I had to identify one food item worth traveling for, it might be matcha soft-serve ice cream.

Honolulu has embraced Japanese influences in countless ways, and few are more enjoyable on a warm afternoon. Equally beloved are Hawaii’s Portuguese malasadas.

The undisputed champion is Leonard’s Bakery. The lines often stretch out the door, and for good reason. These warm, sugar-coated doughnuts are served fresh throughout the day and have become one of Hawaii’s most enduring culinary traditions.

The Two Ubiquitous Stores

No discussion of Honolulu would be complete without mentioning ABC Stores. They seem to occupy every other corner in Waikiki. Part convenience store, part souvenir shop, part emergency supplier, they sell everything from sunscreen and snacks to beach towels and local gifts. Visitors quickly learn that ABC Stores are an essential part of the Waikiki ecosystem.

Almost equally ubiquitous is the Hawaiian Cookie Company. Their shortbread cookies, often packaged in colorful gift boxes, have become one of Hawaii’s signature edible souvenirs and seem to accompany departing travelers on flights around the world.

Two Hotels with Personality

Honolulu has no shortage of hotels. Most are perfectly pleasant but largely interchangeable.

Two properties I particularly enjoy are the Wayfinder Waikiki and the Kaimana Beach Hotel.

The Wayfinder appeals to my affection for mid-century modern and Brutalist-inspired design. When I first stayed there it could certainly have used some renovation, but its smaller scale, mountain views, and genuinely personal service gave it a character missing from many larger resorts. The Kaimana offers something entirely different. Its mid-century vibe, quieter location, and spectacular banyan tree shading the restaurant create an atmosphere that feels distinctively Hawaiian rather than generically tropical.

Neither hotel is perfect, which is part of their charm.

A Word About the Ocean

The ocean deserves respect. Surfing and open-water swimming may appear effortless when performed by experienced locals, but conditions can change rapidly. Every year visitors underestimate currents, surf, and shore break. A member of my friend’s family is a Honolulu firefighter and recently received a commendation for rescuing two swimmers whose situation became life-threatening. The lesson is simple: enjoy the water, but know your limits.

A Final Reflection

Honolulu is easy to love.The beaches, climate, scenery, and aloha spirit continue to draw millions of visitors every year.

Yet there is another side to the story. Longtime residents increasingly struggle with housing costs that far outpace local wages. Short-term rentals have reduced available housing in some neighborhoods. Tourism generates significant waste. Native ecosystems face constant pressure, and Hawaii has experienced tragic losses of native species over the decades.

None of this should discourage anyone from visiting.

Quite the opposite.

It simply reminds us to travel thoughtfully. Tip generously when service is good. Be mindful of the waste we create. Respect wildlife protection rules. Support local businesses when possible.

If we do those things, perhaps future generations will have the opportunity to enjoy the same remarkable islands that have captivated visitors—and residents—for generations.