A Week of Markets Around Avignon

One of the many remarkable things about Provence—the magical, sun-drenched corner of southern France—is its markets.

While many places have farmers markets, Provence has something closer to a way of life. Nearly every town has its own market day, often following traditions that stretch back hundreds of years. The result is that, if you are so inclined, you can visit a different market every day of the week.

That is exactly what we have done during our extended stays just outside Avignon.

The tradition dates back to the Middle Ages, when farmers, shepherds, winemakers, and merchants would gather on designated days to trade goods. In many parts of France these markets gradually faded away as supermarkets took over. Provence, however, held on to them. Today they remain as much social events as shopping opportunities. Locals still come to buy vegetables picked that morning, cheeses made just a few miles away, and olives grown on nearby hillsides. Just as importantly, they come to catch up with neighbors over coffee and exchange local gossip.

Before sharing our favorite markets, a few tips:

Arrive Early

Just like the locals, arrive early if you want the best selection. The freshest strawberries, peaches, melons, tomatoes, and herbs disappear quickly. Watch where the longest lines form. The locals know which farmer grows the sweetest fruit and which vendor offers the best value. Arriving early also helps with parking. These markets attract both tourists and regional residents, and many are held in towns never designed for modern traffic. We once arrived at L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on a busy Sunday and ended up parking so far away that our walk into town took nearly thirty minutes.

Bring Some Cash

Most vendors now accept credit cards, but not all do.

You do not want to miss out on beautiful peaches or a wedge of perfectly ripe goat cheese because you only brought a credit card.

On one occasion, after paying a farmer in cash, he smiled and dropped an extra apple into our bag. I suspect that would not have happened at the supermarket.

Bring Your Own Bag

Many vendors provide small bags, but you will quickly accumulate more purchases than they can comfortably hold.

A sturdy tote or market basket is invaluable.

If you forget, do not worry. Provence has a solution for everything. Somewhere in nearly every market you will find a vendor selling the large woven baskets that seem to be the unofficial accessory of the region.

Know What Market You Are Visiting

Not all markets are the same.

Our village of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, just across the Rhône from Avignon, hosts two entirely different markets. Thursday is devoted to food, produce, and local specialties. Saturday is an antique market.

It is not uncommon to see visitors wandering through the antique stalls on Saturday looking slightly bewildered and asking where the vegetables are.

A quick internet search before you go can save confusion.

Be Adventurous

You did not travel all the way to Provence to buy the same things available in your supermarket back home. Try vegetables you have never seen before. Ask the cheese vendor what is local and perfectly ripe today. Sample the endless varieties of tapenade. Buy olives from the vendor whose family has been curing them for generations. And whatever you do, do not walk past the stands where chickens and pork are roasting above enormous trays of potatoes soaking up all those wonderful juices. Seasonality matters here. Depending on the time of year, keep an eye out for white asparagus, Cavaillon melons, apricots, cherries, figs, wild strawberries, courgette flowers, fresh garlic, and the summer tomatoes that will ruin ordinary tomatoes for you forever.

Make a Half Day of It

The markets are not errands. They are experiences.

Arrive early and start with coffee and a still-warm pastry. Wander without a plan. Sit for an early lunch and enjoy the people-watching.

At our Thursday market in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, it is perfectly normal to see one table sipping coffee while the next enjoys a glass of prosecco alongside a plate of freshly shucked oysters. Nobody seems to be in a hurry.

And that may be the greatest lesson Provence has to offer.

Our Favorite Markets

Monday: Vaison-la-Romaine

Monday belongs to Vaison-la-Romaine, one of our favorite market towns.

The market spreads throughout the historic center and combines excellent produce with clothing, household goods, local specialties, and artisan products. What makes it special is the setting. After shopping, spend time exploring the Roman ruins and medieval upper town. Few markets offer 2,000 years of history as a backdrop.

Tuesday: Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

If I had to choose a Tuesday market, it would be Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

Set beneath plane trees and surrounded by elegant stone buildings, it feels quintessentially Provençal. The produce is excellent, but so are the soaps, linens, olive oils, and specialty foods. The town itself is delightful for wandering, making it easy to spend several hours here.

Wednesday: Uzès

The Wednesday market in Uzès may be the most beautiful market setting of them all.

Stalls fill the Place aux Herbes beneath arcaded buildings and shaded trees. The atmosphere is lively without feeling overwhelming. Alongside excellent produce, you will find regional foods, flowers, and artisanal products. The surrounding streets are filled with inviting cafés that practically demand a leisurely lunch.

Thursday: Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

This is our neighborhood market and one we visit regularly.

It feels authentic, local, and refreshingly untouristed. The emphasis is on food: fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats, seafood, olives, and prepared specialties.

Many shoppers seem to know the vendors personally. Even after only a few visits, we found ourselves being greeted like regulars.

Friday: Les Halles d’Avignon

Les Halles is not a traditional outdoor market but a covered market in the heart of Avignon.

Open most mornings except Monday, it is the perfect choice when the weather is less cooperative or when you want a concentrated collection of excellent food vendors under one roof.

Think of it as Provence’s answer to a gourmet food hall. Cheeses, charcuterie, seafood, pastries, wines, spices, and prepared foods are all beautifully displayed. The quality is consistently excellent.

Saturday: Pernes-les-Fontaines

Saturday belongs to Pernes-les-Fontaines, one of Provence’s most underrated market towns.

While it lacks the fame of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue or Uzès, that is part of its appeal. The market feels primarily local, with a wonderful mix of produce, cheeses, olives, flowers, clothing, and everyday goods. The atmosphere is relaxed and authentic, and you are far more likely to hear French than English.

What makes the experience special is the town itself. Pernes-les-Fontaines is famous for its many historic fountains, which seem to appear around every corner. After shopping, take time to wander the narrow streets, admire the honey-colored stone buildings, and discover quiet squares shaded by plane trees. It is exactly the sort of town where you arrive intending to spend an hour and somehow find yourself still there at lunchtime.

The market may not be the largest in Provence, but it is one of the most pleasant. It feels less like a tourist attraction and more like a weekly gathering place for the community—a reminder that the best Provençal experiences are often the simplest ones.

Sunday: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Sunday belongs to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

Part market, part street festival, part treasure hunt, it is one of the most famous markets in Provence. The produce is wonderful, but antiques are equally important. Dealers, collectors, and curious browsers all mingle among the stalls.

The canals, stone bridges, and riverside setting make it one of the most picturesque market experiences in France.

Just remember my earlier advice about arriving early.

Sunday Alternative: Eygalières

For something smaller and more intimate, consider Eygalières.

This charming village at the foot of the Alpilles hosts a lovely market that feels far more local than many of the larger destinations. It lacks the scale of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue but compensates with authenticity and charm. It is the sort of place where you can still imagine Provence before tourism arrived.

One Market I Would Skip

This may be mildly controversial, but I would not recommend visiting Gordes on market day.

Gordes is one of the most beautiful villages in France. On ordinary days, it is magical.

On market day, however, the tiny village becomes overwhelmed by visitors. Parking can be extraordinarily difficult, the streets become packed shoulder-to-shoulder, and the market itself feels far more oriented toward tourists than locals. Instead of abundant produce stands, you will find a great deal of clothing, souvenirs, and tourist-oriented merchandise.

The crowds overwhelm the tranquility that makes Gordes so special in the first place.

Visit Gordes, absolutely. Just visit on almost any day except market day.

After many months in Provence, one of our favorite discoveries has been that the markets are about much more than shopping. They are where Provence gathers. They are where farmers still sell directly to customers, where neighbors stop to talk, and where visitors get a glimpse of everyday life that no museum or guidebook can provide.

And if you plan carefully, you can enjoy a different one every day of the week.