Uzès and the Pont du Gard: Two Treasures of Provence

One of the great joys of spending extended time in Provence is discovering places that somehow exceed all expectations. For us, Uzès has been exactly that sort of discovery.

A friend recommended it to us and, while it appears in every guidebook to southern France, we were wildly surprised by just how lovely it is. Charming, manageable in size, easy to navigate, and full of character, it feels like the sort of place that deserves far more attention than it receives. Then again, perhaps its relative lack of fame is part of the secret. Unlike some destinations that have become overwhelmed by tourism, Uzès still feels like a real town where people live, work, shop, and gather.

One of the first things that impressed us was how easy it is to visit. The historic center is surrounded by a well-designed ring road that makes entering and leaving town remarkably simple. Like many French towns, Uzès has ample parking that is thoughtfully integrated into the landscape. Lots are tucked underground or hidden behind old stone walls, preserving the beauty of the historic center. There are none of the massive parking structures that so often intrude upon attractive American downtowns.

A Brief History

Uzès proudly claims to be the first duchy of France, and its history stretches back to Roman times. During the Middle Ages it became an important religious and commercial center, and wealthy families built elegant stone residences that still line many of its streets today.

Unlike some French towns that feel frozen in time, Uzès feels very much alive. Its medieval lanes, graceful squares, fountains, and market streets are not museum pieces but active parts of daily life. The result is a town that feels authentic rather than staged.

How to Enjoy Uzès

The best way to experience Uzès is simply to wander. Start at the beautiful Place aux Herbes, a shaded square surrounded by cafés and arcades.

From there, lose yourself in the maze of narrow streets, discovering hidden courtyards, old stone houses, and small squares that seem designed specifically for sitting with a coffee and watching the world pass by.

Visit the Cathedral of Saint-Théodorit and climb the Fenestrelle Tower if it is open. Explore the market streets. Browse the boutiques. Stop frequently.

Uzès rewards curiosity more than planning.

One thing that stood out to us was the quality and originality of the shops. Rather than endless souvenir stores, we found quirky independent merchants selling everything from artisan foods to home goods and clothing.

One particularly memorable shop specialized in upcycled fashion. France has recently taken significant steps to discourage the waste associated with fast fashion, making surplus fabrics and unsold inventory increasingly available to designers. The result is a growing movement of creative makers who transform discarded textiles into unique, one-of-a-kind garments. It was refreshing to see sustainability expressed through creativity rather than sacrifice.

What to Eat

Like much of the Gard region, Uzès sits in a wonderful agricultural area.

Local specialties include olives and olive oil, goat cheeses from nearby farms, seasonal vegetables, honey, truffles when in season, and wines from surrounding vineyards. The region is also known for its figs and for dishes that reflect the blend of Provençal and Languedoc traditions.

While I generally avoid recommending specific restaurants—there are simply too many excellent choices—we enjoyed lunch at TEN. It earned the praise it receives in reviews: creative without being pretentious, attentive service, and food that felt rooted in the region while still offering a contemporary touch.

A Moment in the Cathedral

One of my strongest memories from Uzès came not from a restaurant or a shop but from sitting quietly inside the cathedral.

As I sat in one of the pews, I found myself thinking about the generations of people who had sat in that very same spot before me. For hundreds of years they attended Mass there, celebrated weddings, mourned funerals, prayed through wars, harvests, triumphs, and disappointments.

Most are now entirely forgotten. Their names lost. Their stories gone.

Yet for a brief moment I occupied the same space they once did.

Travel often encourages us to think about geography. Occasionally it also reminds us of time.

The Pont du Gard

Although many visitors pair Uzès and the Pont du Gard into a single outing, I am not entirely convinced that is the ideal approach.

Both deserve either a full day or at least a leisurely half day of exploration. If your schedule allows, give each the time it deserves.

That said, if you are on a tighter itinerary and can get an early start in Uzès, combining the two is certainly worthwhile because the Pont du Gard is one of the most extraordinary sights in France.

Built by the Romans nearly 2,000 years ago, the aqueduct carried water more than 30 miles from springs near Uzès to the Roman city of Nîmes. The bridge itself is the highest surviving Roman aqueduct in the world, standing almost 160 feet tall.

What makes it especially remarkable is not only its size but its preservation. After the Roman Empire declined, many ancient structures were dismantled and their stones reused. The Pont du Gard survived largely because it continued serving as an important river crossing long after its aqueduct function ended. Successive generations recognized its value and preserved it rather than quarrying it.

Today it stands as one of the finest surviving examples of Roman engineering anywhere on earth.

A Respectful Approach to Heritage

What impressed us almost as much as the monument itself was the way it is presented.

As you approach the site there are no flashing signs, no billboards, and no endless rows of vendors selling keychains, magnets, and tea towels embroidered with tiny images of the bridge.

Instead, the visitor center, parking, museums, and restaurants are thoughtfully designed and set at a respectful distance from the monument itself.

The atmosphere feels elegant, restrained, and appropriate to a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

If you have ever visited a major attraction such as Mount Rushmore and been struck by the carnival atmosphere that sometimes surrounds important landmarks, you may find the contrast remarkable. The Pont du Gard feels treated as a cultural treasure rather than a commercial opportunity.

Walk Across It

My strongest recommendation is simple: don’t just look at the bridge. Walk across it. Photographs capture its beauty but not its scale.

As you cross, the dimensions become overwhelming. The precision of the stonework becomes more apparent. You begin to appreciate not only the engineering achievement but also the audacity of the project itself.

Take your time.

And after you’ve finished exploring, settle onto the terrace of one of the nearby restaurants or cafés. They are positioned far enough away to preserve the dignity of the site while still offering magnificent views.

We ordered a round of Prosecco and spent an hour gazing at the bridge while enjoying a robust—if admittedly ill-informed—discussion about how such a marvel could possibly have been constructed without modern machinery and how miraculous it seems that it survived the centuries.

The answers are found in engineering, history, and human ingenuity.

The sense of wonder, however, remains very much intact.