top of page
Search

Beyond Reno: Six Delightful Day Trips Through Northern Nevada and California

Writer: Joe Gillach
Joe Gillach
11 minutes ago
13 min read

Living in Reno, we are often asked what there is to do when friends come to visit. My usual answer is, “Not a lot.”


Which is not to say Reno isn’t a lovely and remarkably easy place to live, surrounded by spectacular mountains, with abundant sunshine and some of the best outdoor recreation in the American West. But as I’ve written in a previous blog, Reno itself has never been much of a tourist destination beyond its casinos. Historically, it has been more of a regional business center, and today many people know it primarily as the place they pass through on their way to nearby Lake Tahoe.


But what Reno lacks in major tourist attractions, it more than makes up for in its location. Within an hour or two, you can find yourself wandering the streets of a Gold Rush-era town, exploring the remains of one of the richest silver mining districts in American history, visiting Nevada’s oldest settlement, or driving through landscapes so vast and empty that you begin to understand why Nevada is one of the least densely populated states in the country.


And unlike Lake Tahoe, which can feel positively overwhelmed by tourists these days, many of these places remain wonderfully uncrowded.


So, for those spending more than a few days in Reno, here are six excursions worth considering. Some are well-known, others decidedly obscure, and a few have the sort of quirky attractions that always seem to find their way into my travel blogs.


If You Only Have Time for Three


These would be my first choices: Truckee, Virginia City, and Genoa. All are within about an hour of Reno, and each offers something quite different.


Truckee, California

About 35–45 minutes west of Reno


Truckee may be my favorite small town in the region. Nestled in the Sierra Nevada at an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet, it combines the charm of a historic railroad town with a lively collection of restaurants, galleries, and independent shops.


Its history is fascinating, and not always pretty.


Truckee developed in the 1860s as the Central Pacific Railroad pushed its way over the Sierra Nevada to complete the first transcontinental railroad. Thousands of Chinese laborers performed some of the most dangerous and difficult work, carving tunnels through solid granite and enduring brutal winters. The town later became a major center for lumbering, ice harvesting, and transportation.


Today, its historic downtown, centered along Donner Pass Road, is one of the best-preserved and most enjoyable small-town main streets in Northern California. Handsome 19th-century brick and wooden buildings house bookstores, art galleries, coffee shops, and restaurants. It’s a town that invites wandering rather than following a rigid itinerary.


What to see:


  • Historic Downtown Truckee. Start with a stroll along Donner Pass Road, stopping at the independent shops and restaurants. The old railroad depot is a reminder of the town’s origins.

  • Donner Memorial State Park. Just a few minutes from downtown, this beautiful park tells the tragic story of the Donner Party, the group of pioneers stranded here during the winter of 1846–47. The visitor center does an excellent job of explaining both the ordeal and the broader history of westward migration.

  • Donner Lake. Much smaller and more intimate than Lake Tahoe, this alpine lake is surrounded by mountains and offers some lovely places to walk or simply admire the scenery.

  • Donner Pass. Continue west on the historic route toward the summit for dramatic views, old railroad tunnels, and an appreciation of the extraordinary engineering required to bring the railroad across the mountains.


And now for a couple of my favorite quirks.


At Donner Memorial State Park, look closely at the enormous stone pedestal supporting the Pioneer Monument. Its height, 22 feet, is traditionally associated with the extraordinary depth of snow during the Donner Party’s terrible winter.


And then there are the old railroad snow sheds and tunnels near Donner Pass. Some of these abandoned passages are accessible on foot, and the graffiti-covered concrete structures make for an unexpectedly surreal sight amid the otherwise magnificent mountain scenery. Explore only where access is permitted and conditions are safe.


Truckee also has a delightful collection of historic buildings, including the tiny Old Jail Museum, dating from the 19th century. It’s worth checking its limited opening hours.


For lunch, I would stay downtown, where the choice of restaurants is surprisingly good for a town of this size.


My verdict: Truckee is an ideal combination of history, scenery, and small-town charm. If you enjoy historic architecture, interesting shops, and a good lunch, it’s hard to beat.


Virginia City, Nevada

About 40–45 minutes southeast of Reno


If Truckee represents the story of the railroad and California’s westward expansion, Virginia City tells the story of the enormous mineral wealth that helped build the American West.


Perched high on the slopes of Mount Davidson, Virginia City was once one of the richest and most important mining towns in America.


The discovery of the Comstock Lode in 1859 unleashed a silver and gold mining boom of almost unimaginable proportions. Fortunes were made and lost, magnificent buildings rose from the dusty mountainside, and the town’s population swelled into the tens of thousands. At its height, Virginia City was one of the most important urban centers between San Francisco and the Rocky Mountains.


The wealth extracted from the Comstock helped finance San Francisco’s development and played an important role in Nevada’s early economy.


It also gave us one of America’s greatest writers. A young newspaper reporter named Samuel Clemens worked for the Territorial Enterprise in Virginia City, where he began using the pen name Mark Twain.


Today, Virginia City is part historic treasure and part unabashed tourist attraction. There are plenty of souvenir shops, staged gunfights, and businesses capitalizing on the Old West theme. But look beyond those and you will find a remarkable collection of original 19th-century buildings and a fascinating history.


What to see:

  • C Street. The town’s main thoroughfare, lined with wooden sidewalks, Victorian storefronts, old saloons, and historic hotels. Even with the tourist shops, it is wonderfully atmospheric.

  • The Fourth Ward School Museum. One of my favorite sorts of attractions: a magnificent, four-story Victorian schoolhouse built in 1876, now a museum. Its architecture alone makes it worth a visit.

  • St. Mary in the Mountains Catholic Church. A striking Gothic Revival church dating to the Comstock era, with an interior that seems almost improbably grand for a former mining town.

  • Mackay Mansion. An elegant historic house associated with mining magnate John Mackay, one of the great fortunes of the Comstock.

  • The Chollar Mine. An opportunity to descend into part of a historic mining operation and learn something about the difficult, dangerous lives of the men who extracted the silver.


For the quirky side of Virginia City, there is no shortage of possibilities.


The Bucket of Blood Saloon, with its rather unforgettable name, has been serving visitors since the 19th century. The Piper’s Opera House is another wonderful surprise, a reminder that even rough mining towns wanted culture and entertainment.


And if you happen to visit in September, you may encounter the International Camel & Ostrich Races, one of those wonderfully eccentric Nevada traditions that defies explanation.


There is also a historic cemetery, the Silver Terrace Cemeteries, whose elaborate monuments and weathered grave markers tell stories of mining wealth, epidemics, and the many immigrant communities that once called this town home.


My verdict: Virginia City is probably the single most historically interesting day trip from Reno. Yes, it’s touristy. But beneath the Old West theatrics is an extraordinary piece of American history.


Genoa, Nevada

About 55–65 minutes south of Reno


Of these three towns, Genoa is perhaps the least famous, and in some ways the most charming.


Tucked against the eastern foothills of the Sierra Nevada in the beautiful Carson Valley, Genoa has the distinction of being Nevada’s oldest permanent non-Indigenous settlement, established in 1851 as a trading post along the California Trail.


Originally called Mormon Station, it provided supplies to emigrants heading west toward California’s goldfields. Unlike Virginia City, which grew rich on silver, Genoa developed as a small agricultural and trading community.


And remarkably, it still feels like one.


With a population of only a few hundred, Genoa is the sort of place where the historic buildings, enormous cottonwood trees, and quiet streets seem almost untouched by the modern world.


What to see:

  • Genoa Historic District. Wander the compact center of town, with its historic houses, churches, and small collection of shops.

  • Mormon Station State Historic Park. The site of the original trading post, with a reconstructed stockade and exhibits explaining the town’s early history.

  • Genoa Courthouse Museum. Housed in the former courthouse, this little museum offers an excellent introduction to the Carson Valley’s pioneer history.

  • Genoa Bar. Frequently described as Nevada’s oldest continuously operating bar, dating to 1853. Its weathered interior, old photographs, and wonderfully unpolished atmosphere are reason enough to stop in, even if only to look around.

  • Genoa Cemetery. An atmospheric old burial ground with views across the valley and the mountains beyond.


One of Genoa’s more unusual claims to fame is its connection to the famous—or infamous—divorce trade. During the early 20th century, Nevada’s liberal divorce laws attracted wealthy visitors seeking to end their marriages. Genoa’s nearby ranches and hotels became part of this peculiar chapter in Nevada history.


Another lovely detour is Walley’s Hot Springs, just outside town, where geothermal waters have attracted visitors since the 19th century. Access to the present-day resort facilities should be checked in advance.


If you enjoy a walk, the Genoa Trail System offers routes into the foothills, with sweeping views over the Carson Valley. In autumn, the cottonwoods turn brilliant shades of gold, making this an especially beautiful time to visit.


My verdict: Genoa is less about a long list of attractions and more about atmosphere. It is quiet, historic, and wonderfully picturesque. Pair it with lunch in the Carson Valley and you have a lovely, unhurried day.



If You Have More Time on Your Hands


If you have already explored those three towns, aren’t tempted by Reno’s casinos, and aren’t heading up to Mount Rose for skiing, there are several more excursions worth considering.


These are less polished tourist destinations, but they offer a glimpse of a Nevada that most visitors never see.


Pyramid Lake, Nevada

About 45–60 minutes northeast of Reno


Of all the natural wonders within easy reach of Reno, Pyramid Lake may be the most unexpected.


Imagine driving through miles of seemingly endless high desert, with little more than sagebrush, distant mountains, and the occasional ranch for company, when suddenly an enormous expanse of brilliant blue water appears in the middle of this otherwise arid landscape.


It is quite a sight.


Pyramid Lake covers approximately 125,000 acres, making it one of Nevada’s largest natural lakes. It is also one of the last great remnants of ancient Lake Lahontan, an immense inland lake that covered much of northwestern Nevada during the last Ice Age. As the climate warmed and the waters receded, Pyramid Lake survived, fed by the Truckee River, which begins at Lake Tahoe and ends here.


Unlike Tahoe, Pyramid Lake has no outlet, meaning that water leaves primarily through evaporation. The result is a lake with a distinctive mineral composition and an otherworldly landscape.


But Pyramid Lake is far more than a geological curiosity.


It lies entirely within the Pyramid Lake Paiute Reservation and has been central to the culture, history, and spiritual traditions of the Northern Paiute people for thousands of years. The lake is particularly important to the Cui-ui and Lahontan cutthroat trout, two native fish species deeply connected to the tribe’s history and way of life.


What to see:

  • Pyramid Lake Scenic Drive. The journey along the western shore offers magnificent views of the lake, surrounding desert mountains, and unusual rock formations. The contrast between the intensely blue water and the barren landscape is extraordinary.

  • Pyramid Rock. The lake takes its name from this enormous pyramid-shaped tufa formation rising from the water near its eastern shore. It is one of the lake’s most recognizable landmarks, although viewing it up close is restricted.

  • Pyramid Lake Paiute Tribe Museum and Visitors Center. Located in Nixon, this is an essential stop for understanding the history, culture, and continuing traditions of the Paiute people. Exhibits explore the tribe’s relationship with the lake, its wildlife, and the surrounding landscape.

  • Sutcliffe. A tiny settlement on the western shore, with access to some of the lake’s recreational areas and dramatic views across the water.

  • The Lake’s Beaches. Several designated areas offer opportunities to walk along the shoreline, picnic, photograph the scenery, or simply enjoy the remarkable silence of the desert.


And now for a couple of Pyramid Lake’s more unusual features.


The lake is famous for its extraordinary tufa formations, strange limestone structures created when calcium-rich spring water interacted with the lake’s alkaline waters. Some resemble towers, others giant mushrooms, and a few look like sculptures that might have been created by a particularly imaginative modern artist.


One of the most spectacular, Anaho Island, rises from the lake and serves as an important nesting area for American white pelicans. The island is protected as a National Wildlife Refuge and is closed to public access, but it can be admired from a distance.


Pyramid Lake is also legendary among anglers for its enormous Lahontan cutthroat trout. These fish can reach astonishing sizes, and the lake attracts serious fishermen from around the country.


And then there is the silence. Unlike Tahoe, with its lakeside resorts, busy roads, and seemingly endless recreational activity, Pyramid Lake can feel almost completely removed from the modern world.


A practical note: Because the lake is on tribal land, visitors need to obtain the appropriate tribal permits for many recreational activities, and certain areas are restricted or sacred. It is important to respect the tribe’s rules, which are intended to protect both the environment and culturally significant sites.


There are also relatively few restaurants or other visitor services around the lake, so this is one excursion where bringing a picnic and plenty of water is a good idea.


My verdict: Pyramid Lake offers one of the most dramatic contrasts to Lake Tahoe imaginable. Both are magnificent bodies of water, but where Tahoe is lush, alpine, and heavily developed, Pyramid Lake is stark, remote, and almost hauntingly beautiful. For visitors interested in geology, Indigenous history, or simply spectacular scenery without the crowds, it is well worth the drive.


Fallon, Nevada

About 65–75 minutes east of Reno


Fallon is a working agricultural and military town rather than a conventional tourist destination, which is precisely what makes it interesting.


Situated in the Lahontan Valley, Fallon grew as an agricultural center following the development of the Newlands Reclamation Project in the early 20th century, one of the first major federal irrigation projects in the country.


The result is a surprisingly green farming landscape surrounded by the dry Nevada desert.


Today, Fallon is perhaps best known as the home of Naval Air Station Fallon, where the U.S. Navy’s famous TOPGUN fighter pilot training program is based.


But there is much more to see.


What to see:


  • Churchill County Museum. An excellent regional museum covering Native American history, pioneer settlement, agriculture, and military aviation.

  • Grimes Point Archaeological Area. Just east of Fallon, this remarkable site contains thousands of ancient petroglyphs carved into dark desert rocks. A short walking trail makes it relatively easy to explore.

  • Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. A vast wetland landscape that attracts migratory birds and offers a completely different view of Nevada’s natural environment.

  • Lahontan State Recreation Area. A reservoir surrounded by desert scenery, popular for birdwatching, boating, and picnicking.

  • Historic Downtown Fallon. A modest but pleasant collection of older buildings, local shops, and restaurants.


For something a little unusual, Fallon is famous for its Hearts of Gold cantaloupes, grown in the fertile Lahontan Valley. The town celebrates its agricultural heritage with the annual Fallon Cantaloupe Festival, a wonderfully local event.


And aviation enthusiasts may enjoy the chance to see military jets training in the skies around Fallon, although the naval air station itself is not generally open for casual tourist visits.


My verdict: Fallon offers an interesting combination of ancient history, modern military aviation, and rural Nevada life. The petroglyphs at Grimes Point alone make it worth considering.


Lovelock, Nevada

About 1 hour 30 minutes northeast of Reno


Lovelock is one of those places most people pass on Interstate 80 without giving it a second thought.


Which is a shame, because it has a surprisingly interesting history.


Founded as a railroad and agricultural community in the 19th century, Lovelock developed around the fertile lands of the Humboldt River basin. Today, it remains a small county seat surrounded by ranches, farmland, and desert mountains.


Its most famous attraction, however, lies outside town.


What to see:


  • Lovelock Cave. One of Nevada’s most important archaeological sites. Excavations here uncovered extraordinary examples of ancient Indigenous craftsmanship, including beautifully preserved duck decoys made from tule reeds, some approximately 2,000 years old.

  • Pershing County Courthouse. An elegant early 20th-century courthouse in the center of town, reflecting the optimism and civic pride of small Western communities.

  • Marzen House Museum. A local history museum housed in a historic residence, with exhibits on the region’s ranching, mining, and pioneer history.

  • Lovers Lock Plaza. Perhaps Lovelock’s most unexpected attraction, a public space where couples attach padlocks as symbols of their affection, inspired by similar traditions in Europe.


The town has enthusiastically embraced the coincidence of its name, promoting itself as a destination for lovers. It is one of those slightly improbable pieces of small-town marketing that I find rather endearing.


Lovelock Cave has also become associated with the legend of the Si-Te-Cah, a people described in some retellings of Northern Paiute oral traditions. Over the years, sensational stories about red-haired giants have become attached to the cave. The archaeology is fascinating enough without the more fanciful claims, and the site is best appreciated for its genuine Indigenous history.


The surrounding countryside also provides a glimpse of Nevada’s enormous open spaces, with mountain ranges rising abruptly from the desert floor.


My verdict: Lovelock is a quieter, more specialized excursion, particularly appealing to anyone interested in archaeology, Native American history, or the peculiar charms of small Western towns.




And What About Lake Tahoe?


Of course, no discussion of day trips from Reno would be complete without mentioning Lake Tahoe.


It is, quite simply, one of the most beautiful alpine lakes in the world. The extraordinary clarity of its water, the snowcapped Sierra Nevada, and the dramatic shoreline are breathtaking, no matter how many times you have seen them.


But our personal experience has been that while visitors are invariably awed by Tahoe, and rightly so, they are increasingly frustrated by the crowds.


What was once a relatively easy drive around the lake can now become an exercise in patience, particularly on weekends and during the summer and ski seasons. The narrow, winding roads, limited parking, and sheer volume of visitors can make even a short outing surprisingly exhausting.


Overtourism is hardly unique to Tahoe, but it is particularly noticeable in a place where the geography provides so few alternatives to the roads hugging the shoreline.


Unless you are going to ski, hike, boat, or spend several days relaxing by the water, I often think a single well-planned day at Tahoe is enough to appreciate its extraordinary beauty.


And then I would encourage visitors to explore some of these smaller towns instead.


They may lack Tahoe’s dramatic lakefront scenery, but they offer something increasingly difficult to find in many of America’s most popular destinations: a sense of place, an interesting history, and the pleasure of discovering somewhere that hasn’t been completely overwhelmed by tourism.


And, perhaps best of all, you can usually find a parking space.

 
 
 

Recent Posts

See All

Comments


IMG_0283.jpeg

About Joe

Join me on my journey where I combine real estate and international travel!​​

​

joe@onthego-joe.com

© 2023 by Joe on the Go. All rights reserved.

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • LinkedIn
bottom of page