Bath

Many travelers visiting London treat Bath as a quick day trip—an easy box to tick before rushing back to the capital. But that approach misses the point entirely. To truly experience this remarkable double UNESCO World Heritage city (recognized both for its Roman remains and its Georgian urban landscape), you need at least 3–5 days. We spent four full days here in late March and left already planning a return for a full week in the fall.

Getting there is part of the pleasure. The train from London Paddington Station takes about 90 minutes, gliding through some of England’s most quintessential countryside. A practical note: book tickets early if you can—prices climb dramatically as the departure date approaches.

If you arrive by train with luggage before check-in, you’ll immediately encounter one of Bath’s charming quirks. Right across from the station are small storefronts—some with nothing more than sandwich boards—offering baggage storage. We chose a barber shop with a corner piled high with suitcases. Five pounds a bag. Efficient, slightly chaotic, and utterly delightful.

Bath sits in a valley, which surprises many first-time visitors. It’s hillier than expected, so bring good walking shoes. Venturing beyond the central cluster around the Roman Baths and Bath Abbey means tackling some steep climbs—but the payoff is spectacular. From above, you’ll take in sweeping views of the Avon Valley and the winding River Avon.

For one of the best introductions to the city, head first to Alexandra Park. The path begins just behind the train station, climbing via roads and staircases. On the way down, follow the route marked “Easiest Way Down,” where you’ll catch your first glimpse of Bath’s iconic Regency-era terraces—rows of honey-colored buildings glowing softly in the light.

That golden hue defines Bath. Nearly every structure is built from Bath stone, a warm limestone that gives the city its unified elegance. Interestingly, it wasn’t always this way. Until the 1980s, Bath was blackened by soot from coal pollution. A painstaking restoration effort—gently washing buildings over days and brushing them clean—revealed the original color beneath. Before that, the city was considered so grimy that many Georgian buildings were at risk of demolition, and entire townhouses could be bought for a fraction of their current value. Credit is due to the Bath Preservation Trust for recognizing what others nearly lost.

The Roman Baths are, of course, essential. Arrive right at opening (9am) or later in the afternoon to avoid the crush of tour groups that descends by mid-morning. The museum is exceptionally well done—thoughtful, immersive, and full of fascinating details. Among the most memorable are the curse tablets: thin sheets of metal inscribed by Romans asking the goddess Sulis Minerva to punish thieves or wrongdoers. These ancient grievances—petty, personal, and oddly relatable—offer a rare, human connection across two millennia.

Next door, Bath Abbey stands as one of England’s last great Gothic churches, completed just as Renaissance ideals were taking hold in Europe. Its fan-vaulted ceiling is breathtaking, and the west front features intricate carvings of angels climbing ladders to heaven—a unique and symbolic façade. The Abbey also reflects Bath’s long-standing role as both a religious and social center, hosting coronations and significant civic ceremonies over the centuries. As with the Baths, aim to visit early or late to avoid the heaviest crowds.

To truly understand Bath, I highly recommend a walking tour. Ours, booked through GetYourGuide, was led by a brilliant guide named Simon, who brought Georgian Bath vividly to life—complete with tales of scandal, ambition, and excess. This was, after all, the playground of 18th-century high society.

Two architectural highlights you’ll encounter—whether on a tour or exploring independently—are the The Circus and the Royal Crescent, just a short walk apart. The Circus, inspired by the Roman Colosseum, forms a perfect circle of townhouses adorned with three classical orders of columns and Masonic symbols. Look for Number 7—once owned by Nicolas Cage—which famously lacks a visible number, a slightly futile attempt at privacy.

The Royal Crescent is perhaps Bath’s most iconic view: a sweeping arc of 30 terraced houses overlooking a broad green lawn. One of its charming oddities is the single yellow front door among a uniform row of white—an individual flourish in an otherwise strictly regulated façade. Be sure to visit No. 1 Royal Crescent, a museum that offers a beautifully detailed look at Georgian life, from the opulent drawing rooms to the working quarters below stairs.

Insider tip: If you have your walking shoes on, continue beyond the Royal Crescent and climb higher toward Lansdown. Most visitors stop too soon. As you wind your way up through increasingly მშვიდ residential streets, you’ll pass rows of exquisite Georgian homes—Lansdown, Cavendish, and Somerset—each offering sweeping views and almost no crowds.

Keep going, and you can extend this walk to one of Bath’s most unexpected and rewarding landmarks: Beckford’s Tower. Built in the 1820s for William Beckford, the tower is a striking neo-classical folly perched high above the city. Beckford, novelist, collector, and fabulously wealthy eccentric, created it as a private retreat, a place to house his library and escape society, even as he helped define the culture of his age.

The tower feels wonderfully out of place: elegant, solitary, and slightly mysterious. Climb to the top and you’re rewarded with panoramic views that stretch far beyond Bath into the surrounding Somerset and Wiltshire countryside. It’s a very different vantage point from Alexandra Park—less about the city itself, more about its place within the broader landscape.

What makes this excursion special is not just the destination, but the journey. As you leave the main tourist paths behind, the crowds fall away completely. By the time you reach the tower, you may find yourself alone with the view—a rare and memorable contrast to the busy streets below.

Back in town, another essential stop is the elegant Pulteney Bridge—one of only a handful of bridges in the world still lined with shops. Most itineraries cross it en route to the Holburne Museum (recognizable to fans of Bridgerton as Lady Danbury’s home), but don’t stop there. Just behind it lie the Sydney Gardens, Bath’s first Georgian pleasure gardens—peaceful, beautifully maintained, and often overlooked.

If time allows, follow the Kennet and Avon Canal path back toward the station. The walk passes narrowboats, a series of locks, and some of the most tranquil scenery in the area—all with remarkably few tourists.

For literary pilgrims, the Jane Austen Centre offers a nod to one of Bath’s most famous residents, Jane Austen. While the museum is a bit kitschy compared to others in the city, it’s still worth a visit for fans.

A couple of Bath’s cultural highlights were unfortunately closed during our visit—the Fashion Museum and the Assembly Rooms—but even without them, the city feels rich with history at every turn.

And then there’s the food. Surrounded by fertile countryside, Bath has an exceptional dining scene. Our standout meal was at The Circus Restaurant—arguably better than anything we had in London. Other excellent spots include Sotto Sotto, The Elder, Menu Gordon Jones (a theatrical experience), Walcot House, Beckford Canteen, and The Chequers. As for the famous Sally Lunn bun? We took one look and decided our waistlines deserved mercy.

For fans of Bridgerton, Bath is a treasure trove of filming locations, including the Royal Crescent, the Assembly Rooms, Bath Street, Abbey Green, and the Holburne Museum.

Bath is also full of delightful oddities. It claims a connection to the origins of stamp collecting through John Edward Gray, one of the earliest known philatelists. The city’s elegant shopfronts reflect its status in the 18th century as a premier shopping destination—second only to London. And everywhere you look, there are small architectural quirks: hidden courtyards, subtle asymmetries, and details that reward curiosity.

For those with more time, Bath serves as a gateway to the Cotswolds and the rolling landscapes of Wiltshire, dotted with historic estates and postcard-perfect villages.

In the end, Bath is a perfect example of a place that reveals itself gradually. The central sights are undeniably impressive—but the real magic lies beyond them. It’s in the uphill walks, the quiet neighborhoods, the overlooked gardens, and places like Beckford’s Tower that most visitors never reach. Like all great destinations, Bath rewards those willing to slow down, wander a bit further, and stay just a little longer.